Maison Martin Margiela,
A/W 2001-02 Artisanal Denim Jeans
As Martin Margiela quoted; ‘For us our ‘artisanal production’ (for men and women's garments they may be identified by the 0 (zero) encircled on their label), as we have said here, we rework existing garments, fabrics and objects to recreate new garments and accessories. We first adopted this approach for our inaugural collection for Spring/Summer 1989 and it has been an integral and important element of each and every one of our collections since’.
Margiela and the team ruthlessly searched through Parisian flea markets to find vintage garments looking forward to giving them purpose, reworking existing garments, fabrics and objects to recreate new garments and accessories.
Here we have a fine example from the early men's artisanal work, using a collection of vintage sourced grey denim. Re-working them into a pair which includes constrasting patches on the knee, back centre and cleverly placed “pockets” which uses the Trompe Loeil effect.
No size tag.
Waist: 42cm
Rise: 27cm
Inseam: 32cm
Leg opening: 20cm
Hussein Chalayan’s Fall Winter 2003 runway opened with drapey dresses, waif thin pants, and combination of utility and patchwork jackets adorned with embroidery and zippers. These outfits were paired with perfectly moulded tight dresses made of leather and the likes of high heels which perfectly executed the vision Chalayan was projecting. His own distinctive aesthetic revolves beyond trendiness, but in more influential abstract layers onto clothing - such as the meshing of ethnicwear into seemingly urban materials such as cotton, leather, and denim. What might be seemingly experimental is actually the concrete of his cool conceptualisations and abstract narratives: such as noting this show’s runway imagery from performance art to inflatable pockets next to a wooden ship symbolised Noah’s Ark for his design.
This Zipped Jacket is a stellar example of his desires to combine traditional Turkish quilt patterns and exposed zips to create a dynamic, new-age piece which borders between rewired functionability and casual chic. The front features two adjustable zips down both sides of the center allowing for a tighter or looser fit, alongside two adjustable long zips up both shoulders. Although mirrored zippings can be seen at the wrist, they are not conjoined, allowing for a dynamic feel to the piece. The quilt allows for a padded, comfortable feel whilst the neck can be transformed into a collar, allowing for further comfort and warmth, showing Chalayan’s practical nature using traditional materials. A muted colour, the pattern serves as an interesting shift from black, enlisting its spot as an interesting and timeless piece in our permanent collection.
For his A/W 03 collection, Helmut presented a masterpiece to the world, containing a plethora of references that were intertwined alongside his strong references and craftsmanship. Honing in on the military details paying homage to items such as aviator pressure suits and pilot uniforms. This collection paved the way for many to follow due to its distinct nature but strong cohesiveness.
Here we have an incredible example from the collection, an iconic aviator suit reinterpreted into military leg chaps. Featuring a wide range of 1/1 military detailing such as lacing throughout, zips running down each leg, a waistband containing a small zipped pocket and cutout detailing which creates a unique contrast over any surface.
Martin’s menswear, since the very beginning - in 1999 - seemed to showcase garments which are considered regular pieces, but with also the most endearing attention to detail. The detail can be easily missed by the untrained eye which is part what makes his work so intriguing. For his SS06 collection, models were seen wearing garments that seemed to be soaking wet, crinkled up or loose off the body. This was paired with water-related Trompe L’oeil graphics, tailored jackets and leather items.
These particular trousers are constructed in a deep over-dyed denim creating an oversaturated look, featuring a wide long leg fit intended by the Maison. The key detail is the blue leather waistband stitched over the top paired with a large coin pocket inside the right side pocket. The staple blank patched is also visible on the back of the waist band, a feature seen across all of Martin’s denim trousers. Copper coloured rivets and gunmetal buttons accent the denim.
Walter Van Bierendonck, F/W 2019 Bondage Jacket With Removable Fur Scarf
For years Walter has created subversive and individual garments, pushing ideas and setting the tone way ahead of his time, his imprint can be seen clearly in and around the industry. For his FW19 collection, the world of Van Bieredonck was very much alive through the clothes once again, with colour-patched tailoring, knits, semi-sheer dress, and cashmere coats. The eyes on the garments glared with the pops of colour to pull and distract the viewer away.
Here we have a wonderful piece seen on the runway in the blue variation, constructed out of a black soft melton wool fabric while featuring an oversized boxy fit. Details include an array of seatbelt like bondage straps attached across the front of the jacket, which can be used to hold in the detached faux fur scarf attachment. Two lower pockets are placed on the front and finally, the jacket is finished off with a button closure.
