For his A/W 03 collection, Helmut presented a masterpiece to the world, containing a plethora of references that were intertwined alongside his strong references and craftsmanship. Honing in on the military details paying homage to items such as aviator pressure suits and pilot uniforms. This collection paved the way for many to follow due to its distinct nature but strong cohesiveness.
Here we have an incredible example from the collection, an iconic aviator suit reinterpreted into military leg chaps. Featuring a wide range of 1/1 military detailing such as lacing throughout, zips running down each leg, a waistband containing a small zipped pocket and cutout detailing which creates a unique contrast over any surface.
Maison Martin Margiela, S/S 2003 Anatomical Flight Trousers
Crafted from oiled cotton, in a military green colour. These trousers feature an anatomical waist construction, similar to the classic McQueen cut. Each pair is subject to unique wear over time as the oil reacts with the wearer. Further details include ankle side zips to adjust the fit and button popper flap pockets down each seam, taking inspiration from vintage military flight trousers. Lastly, a singular back pocket is placed on the right side and a button/hook closure closes each pair off. Made in France.
Hussein Chalayan’s Fall Winter 2003 runway opened with drapey dresses, waif thin pants, and combination of utility and patchwork jackets adorned with embroidery and zippers. These outfits were paired with perfectly moulded tight dresses made of leather and the likes of high heels which perfectly executed the vision Chalayan was projecting. His own distinctive aesthetic revolves beyond trendiness, but in more influential abstract layers onto clothing - such as the meshing of ethnicwear into seemingly urban materials such as cotton, leather, and denim. What might be seemingly experimental is actually the concrete of his cool conceptualisations and abstract narratives: such as noting this show’s runway imagery from performance art to inflatable pockets next to a wooden ship symbolised Noah’s Ark for his design.
This Zipped Jacket is a stellar example of his desires to combine traditional Turkish quilt patterns and exposed zips to create a dynamic, new-age piece which borders between rewired functionability and casual chic. The front features two adjustable zips down both sides of the center allowing for a tighter or looser fit, alongside two adjustable long zips up both shoulders. Although mirrored zippings can be seen at the wrist, they are not conjoined, allowing for a dynamic feel to the piece. The quilt allows for a padded, comfortable feel whilst the neck can be transformed into a collar, allowing for further comfort and warmth, showing Chalayan’s practical nature using traditional materials. A muted colour, the pattern serves as an interesting shift from black, enlisting its spot as an interesting and timeless piece in our permanent collection.
For his SS21 collection Per used the collection as a tribute to his grandmother, Lillie, who passed away in Sweden during the lockdown, Götesson then looked to the kitschy opulence of her decor for inspiration. Lillie’s legacy was represented in vests and long sleeves made from up-cycled doilies, as well seen in the jewellery created for collection by Götesson’s partner, Husam El Odeh, we saw chandelier crystal adorn a wide range of pieces in the collection. Taking further inspiration from Kurt Kobain and how he exuded the sexy masculinity and confidence in his ugly dress-wearing, implementing this same idea throughout the collection.
Per works consists highly of repurposing and up-cycling old materials and garments into new ones much like the work of the late Martin Margiela, however, implementing a new and fresh take on masculinity through the garments adding a romance and poetry to traditional ideas.
Here we see a key item from the collection, constructed with an array of dead-stock, repurposed crochet and doiley lace fabric, creating an artisanal item. Each vest is completely individual with its own texture, pattern and fit. The vest is finished off with a ribbed hem.
Martin’s menswear, since the very beginning - in 1999 - seemed to showcase garments which are considered regular pieces, but with also the most endearing attention to detail. The detail can be easily missed by the untrained eye which is part what makes his work so intriguing. For his SS06 collection, models were seen wearing garments that seemed to be soaking wet, crinkled up or loose off the body. This was paired with water-related Trompe L’oeil graphics, tailored jackets and leather items.
These particular trousers are constructed in a deep over-dyed denim creating an oversaturated look, featuring a wide long leg fit intended by the Maison. The key detail is the blue leather waistband stitched over the top paired with a large coin pocket inside the right side pocket. The staple blank patched is also visible on the back of the waist band, a feature seen across all of Martin’s denim trousers. Copper coloured rivets and gunmetal buttons accent the denim.
