Maison Martin Margiela, S/S 2000 Military Over-shirt Jacket
The third men's collection after Martin’s SS99 debut, we saw a wide array of again fantastic menswear pieces from long melton wool coats, his signature trucker jacket shown in a variety of colours to statement trousers such as the McQueen and Anatomical style. Heavy militant references were present here, taking the shape and the details while reworking in luxurious fabrics or altering the shape to tailor the body. This collection set the tone for the new millennium, where Martin would go on to carry multiple styles each season perfecting them and reworking processes.
Here we have a wonderful example of the military references used, a cotton-linen heavy blend makes up the entire construction of this half over-shirt half jacket. With shirt detailing such as the rounded hem and the parallel darts down the back, crossed with a double-faced high button closure, double button wrists reminiscent of a 60s French chore jacket and inside out chest pockets seen on French military garments.