Hussein Chalayan, S/S 2004 ‘Temporal Mediations’ Denim Jacket 

For the 64th edition of Pitti Uomo, Chalayan for the first time presents his men's collection to the public. Titled “Temporal Meditations”, the collection sees to bring a journey through time, connecting past and present of Hussein's native country - Cyprus. The movie premiered on 19th June 2003 at Teatro Della Pergola in Florence.

The garments produced for the collection can be viewed as archaeological talismans which morph slivers of past and present, ultimately allowing the garments to become a paradox in themselves, freezing fragments of their archaeological quest in which they were designed. The collection showcased many traditional motifs throughout - a summer meal including watermelon and halloumi cheese, special to Mediterranean culture, coffee fortune-telling and backgammon meet the spectators with their transformed situations. Whilst the model is playing the game backgammon the elements change from solid to liquid, to show that compromise is needed once we experience loss.

This particular jacket from the collection seen in the “Temporal Meditations” original video presentation, is constructed to carry a specific unknown figurine dated 3000-2500 B.C. from Cyprus. The chalcolithic figure shows a squatting female and because of it’s position and size it is thought to represent fertility and procreation (see slides 6 & 7). The inside left of the jacket features a very specific construction that has been taken place to allow for the figurine to fit exactly into the inside of the jacket. (slide 5)

The jacket is constructed in a heavy light wash denim, featuring a cropped body and anatomical arms. Shape much like a work jacket with the single-breasted collar and the placement of the 3 pockets in the front. A double-faced construction is used on the front of the jacket which gives severe structure to the garment. Finally, the riveted construction is seen in the left inside of the jacket. Screenshots from the film show the jacket seen here.

Text sources: Fatos Ustek.

Size 50.

Part of the permanent collection.

London, UK

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