Stefan Cooke, S/S 2021 Cotton Jersey Long Sleeve with Large Star Print
Graduating in February 2017, Cooke was a joint recipient of the highly coveted L’Oréal Professional Creative Award. The label began in the same year and quickly took the attention of the London crowd, getting well-renowned stockists early on, to then reach overseas soon after. Focusing on menswear silhouettes, inspired by traditional British clothing and finding beauty in the mundane, much like menswear the work of the late Martin Margiela, using Trompe L'oeil effects and creating bold menswear staple pieces.
The magic of Stefan and Jakes work sweetly strips the underlying brutality from British masculine clothing traditions. Jake expanded on this by explaining more about the imprint on the brass buttons they’ve had made for the tailoring: “It’s a hunting button, but the emblem on it is this little girl foraging. We liked the idea of taking a hunting button and turning it into something innocent—a different value from hunting. Hunting’s values are gross". The SS21 show included nuances leaning towards old school sports memorabilia, using a leather head guard and padded Alice band.
Constructed out of white woven stretch cotton which has been overprinted after construction with black ink and a star-shaped pattern, allowing the white to show through. This technique leaves the garment showing signs of fading comparable to vintage garments and will only increase further with wear. The overall fit is extremely cropped and slim to the body, with long sleeves to finish.