Hussein Chalayan, S/S 2003 “Absence and Presence” Raw Hemmed M-65 Field Jacket
“Absence and Presence” (Spring/Summer 2003), his first menswear collection, contained T-shirts that could transform into A3 envelopes and be posted. Chalayan identified his garments by referring to the “BY AIR MAIL” postal pieces created for 1998. Little information can be found on this collection but what we do know is that references were taken from military details and a big focus on utilitarian garments.
A reworked M-65 inspired jacket. Constructed out of a soft brushed brown cotton and hemp blend, with a jersey cotton material layered underneath which protrudes out of the bottom hem and cuffs. Four-button snap pockets feature on the front with the button being shallower due to chopped hem. The top layer hem has been cut raw to offer a distressed look. The shallow collar features and belted closure and deconstructed details feature throughout such as; exposed buttonholes down the centrem, belt loops on the back and adjustable waist buttons.