Helmut Lang, S/S 2001 Rounded-Collar Leather Trench Coat with Lace Detailing

Helmut Lang’s Spring Summer 2001 show consisted of his trademark classic-cut slim trousers, moulded tops and functionally tailored coats revamped for Spring. Opening in a very Helmut nature, the outfits were deemed both urban and modern, proving their functionality for the everyday person. However, as the show commenced more sexual undertones became apparent as tape-straps, semi-transparent tops, and bikini bottoms trailed down the runway leading towards crisscrossed, bondage-inspired outfits which inspired both an androgynous, uniformed feel alongside a womanly softness which Helmut was known for.

Here we have one of the rarer iterations of the collarless coat, a style used by Lang across many seasons. This time constructed out of a buttery yellow subtle leather with a pearlescent interior. Details include a rounded collar, hidden-button closure, two flap pockets on the front, hand-stitched seam detail and most notably the lace detailing down each side. This detail was heavily used in the SS 2003 collection making it a distinctive item.

Size 40.

Chest: 44.5cm
Shoulder: 37cm
Length: 95cm
Sleeve: 64cm

Condition 9.5/10.