Helmut Lang, S/S 1997
Orange M65 Military Field Jacket
After launching the Helmut Lang ‘Jeans’ label the year before, Lang went on to continue to develop what would be some of the most recognisable pieces for his S/S 1997 collection following. Helmut honed in his focus, refining his vision with the reinstatement of pieces seen in previous collections in new fabrics and slight detail modifications. The collection saw heavy military influence, more so than previous years, setting the tone for seasons to follow.
Here we see Helmut’s version of the M65 Field Jacket issued during the height of the Vietnam War for the brutally cold weather, providing form and function. In doing so he would use a lightweight ‘rusty’ orange polyamide as the base, an extemely rare colour and fabric combination. Further features include four outer button flap pockets, a hidden-button closure, detailed panelling on the elbow, adjustable cuffs and back torso to adjust the fit. Helmut also refined the fit to create a boxy, much more flattering shape on the body.